Behavior/Obedience
BEHAVIOR HINT - ESTABLISHING DOMINANCE
Many pets are destroyed because of behavior problems. Aggression, inappropriate elimination, and property destruction are common in undisciplined animals. Responsible owners who have established dominance and then obedience-trained their dog rarely have problems.
Canines are not humans and vice versa. Yet many people think of their pets as children while the dog sees their owner as a big dog. Canine social structure is a hierarchy (ladder like) with the alpha male and female at the top and each individual on a separate rung below. Animals in the middle of the pack are dominant to some and submissive to others. Dogs look to their surrogate pack (human family) for the same structure. Animals who know their place in the pack are happy - those who are unsure are nervous. When two individuals occupy the same rung they will fight to determine who is dominant until both understand the ranking. It is important to support and praise the higher-ranking individual and punish the lower ranking one whenever they fight. If equal affection is given to both pets the fighting will continue.
In many households neither the husband nor the wife "wears the pants" - it's the dog. Dominant dogs get fed first, first choice of mates, and the best sleeping accommodations. In exchange for this they are responsible for protecting the pack. To these dogs, the paperboy, the mailman, and visitors may be considered threats that should be attacked and chased away. When faced with these same circumstances, a subordinate dog will bark to alarm the alpha individual who then handles the situation. Subordinate animals want to please their leaders. They come when called, do not engage in destructive behavior, and obey commands they understand.
How do you establish this relationship? Owners must be dominant to their dogs. It is much easier to begin with a young puppy. Hold him on his back in your arms like a baby. If he squirms and cries he is not being submissive. If you let him up he now knows that he can protest and you will relent and he is dominant to you. Dogs understand this implicitly. He has trained you! To train a dog you must think like one. If your pup protests - tell him he is a bad dog, establish eye contact, and growl at him. Withhold praise until he has submitted to you and you have decided to let him up. Practice the rollover training before meals since hunger gives you added leverage. Do not play games with your pet that involve tests of strength that you might lose. If your pup wins a game of tug-of-war he now thinks he can do this in other areas as well. Mouthing and biting is common puppy play but is not acceptable between dogs and humans. When a pup nips you unless you bite him back he thinks you will not fight back and thus are subordinate to him. Do not tolerate this behavior.
Older dogs who are used to getting their own way may not submit and in fact may bite if they feel challenged. Consider using a muzzle and have knowledgeable help before training sessions with such a dog. At the veterinary office these pets often need sedation or anesthesia for minor procedures that submissive animals willingly tolerate.
Obedience training is a must. Once your pup has finished his puppy shot series ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer. Training to establish dominance and obedience takes hard work but the rewards are well worth it.
Feeding
THE OLD SHOES DIET: 4 pairs old leather workboots + 1 gallon used crankcase oil + 1 pail crushed coal + 8 1/2 gallons water. Blend well.
This recipe has a nutritional analysis similar to premium brand adult dog foods, but the "Old Shoes Diet" will not nourish your dog. Quality ingredients are what make a diet palatable, digestible, and nutritious. Can you be getting premium meat (at $2.50/lb and up) in a pet food, which sells for $0.50/lb.? High quality ingredients are expensive. Good quality diets do not need vitamin or mineral supplements. Your pet should eat well, have a glossy sheen to its hair coat, and excrete a compact stool with minimal odor.
To choose the ideal diet for your pet, consider your pet's species, age, and state of health. Each species has its own dietary requirements. Cats and dogs cannot be fed alike. Carnivorous cats require different nutrients for optimal health compared to omnivorous dogs.
Age is another important consideration. Newborns need colostrum - the antibody rich milk produced by the mother during the first 2-3 days after birth. Newborn animals are normally weaned at 5-7 weeks. If unable to remain with their mother until weaning, then a milk-replacer specific to that species should be fed. Cow's milk is not an acceptable long-term substitute.
Young, pregnant, and lactating animals need increased protein and fat but lower amounts of carbohydrate. Food should be available at all times. Special care is needed in choosing a diet for large breed puppies. If these puppies grow too quickly, skeletal problems such as hip and elbow dysplasia may result. Discuss an appropriate diet with your veterinarian if your young pet is predisposed to these diseases.
Adult animals should be fed a diet that matches their activity level. Feed adult pets 2-3X daily and pick up the food dish when the pet walks away. Leaving food down all day is an invitation to get fat. If your pet is at optimal weight, you should be able to just feel the ribs through the thoracic fat pad. If too fat or too thin then change the amount fed or switch to a diet with a different caloric density.
Geriatric pets need low protein and fat, but higher carbohydrate levels than when middle aged.
Consuming inappropriate items such as stool (copraphagy) or rocks (pica) may indicate a nutritional imbalance. A thorough examination including laboratory work and a stool check may be indicated.
Obesity is as much a problem in animals as people. To lose weight an obese pet needs moderate exercise, fresh water, and high fiber/low calorie foods. Dieting pets should lose no more than 5-10% of their weight per month. Weigh your pet 1-2X a month on an accurate scale to assure this optimal loss rate.
Certain diseases respond well to dietary therapy. Examples of these are anemia, anorexia, colitis, constipation, diabetes, diarrhea, food allergy, heart disease, liver disease, obesity, pancreatic disease, renal disease, post-operative convalescence, urinary tract stones, and vomiting. Special therapeutic diets to aid in treatment of these diseases are only available from your veterinarian. Serious problems can result if fed incorrectly.
Your pet's diet is as important as your own. Good nutrition will optimize your pet's activity and health. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a premium diet for your pet. Try it for a month and see if you notice the difference.
House Training
Puppies and kittens should stay with their mothers until weaned at 5-6 weeks of age. Before taking your new pet home schedule a physical exam with your veterinarian. Vaccines, diet, parasite control, abnormal findings, and behavior hints including house-training are routinely discussed at the first visit.
The house-training philosophy for pups and kittens has similar considerations. No animal wants to eliminate in their "nest" (where they sleep or eat). Any area larger than the "nest" even if it is inside your home is considered outdoors and thus OK to eliminate in.
By using this knowledge puppies can be easily and humanely trained to eliminate outdoors without ever soiling the house. The method is called "crate-training". First you must create a "nest" at home. This will be a shipping crate. It must be large enough to fit the pup when an adult and must be escape proof. It will initially be too big for housetraining. The pup's space in the crate should be only large enough to lie down with food and water bowls. If too much space is available the pup may be tempted to eliminate in a far corner. Place a closed cardboard box at the rear of the kennel to temporarily occupy the excess space.
Puppies eliminate at predictable times: 1) upon awakening from sleep, 2) shortly after eating, and 3) when sniffing or checking out a place to eliminate. You must take your puppy to a designated elimination area every time one of these events occurs.
If you cannot directly observe the pup he should be in the crate. When you are in the house move the crate into the room you are using, especially at night. When the pup cries out, take him outside immediately. You may need to get up several times during the night to take your puppy outside until he is old enough to hold his urine and stool until morning. Whenever he eliminates in the approved area praise him lavishly. Never hit or yell at your pet if they "make a mistake". Pups want to please you and fit into their new pack. This is a very strong motivator. Use praise rather than punishment.
Most kittens need only be shown the litter box and will use it instinctively. Start out by keeping your new kitten in a confined space until he is using a litter box regularly. A bathroom is typically the ideal choice. The litter pan should have low sides so a kitten has ready access. The litter should also be cleaned daily (cats don't like a dirty box.) Gradually allow access to the rest of the house as long as the litter box is being used.
Cat spraying should be differentiated from inappropriate urination. Spraying is done to claim territory and usually vertical surfaces are marked while the cat is standing. On the other hand, urination involves the squatting posture and horizontal surfaces are used. Spraying is not limited to intact toms - even spayed females will spray if stressed. Spaying or neutering before sexual maturity will lessen the urge to spray.
If you have problems with house-training a trip to the veterinarian is recommended. Lab work is often performed to rule out medical causes.
Using these simple techniques puppies and kittens can be house-trained quickly and humanely.
Many pets are destroyed because of behavior problems. Aggression, inappropriate elimination, and property destruction are common in undisciplined animals. Responsible owners who have established dominance and then obedience-trained their dog rarely have problems.
Canines are not humans and vice versa. Yet many people think of their pets as children while the dog sees their owner as a big dog. Canine social structure is a hierarchy (ladder like) with the alpha male and female at the top and each individual on a separate rung below. Animals in the middle of the pack are dominant to some and submissive to others. Dogs look to their surrogate pack (human family) for the same structure. Animals who know their place in the pack are happy - those who are unsure are nervous. When two individuals occupy the same rung they will fight to determine who is dominant until both understand the ranking. It is important to support and praise the higher-ranking individual and punish the lower ranking one whenever they fight. If equal affection is given to both pets the fighting will continue.
In many households neither the husband nor the wife "wears the pants" - it's the dog. Dominant dogs get fed first, first choice of mates, and the best sleeping accommodations. In exchange for this they are responsible for protecting the pack. To these dogs, the paperboy, the mailman, and visitors may be considered threats that should be attacked and chased away. When faced with these same circumstances, a subordinate dog will bark to alarm the alpha individual who then handles the situation. Subordinate animals want to please their leaders. They come when called, do not engage in destructive behavior, and obey commands they understand.
How do you establish this relationship? Owners must be dominant to their dogs. It is much easier to begin with a young puppy. Hold him on his back in your arms like a baby. If he squirms and cries he is not being submissive. If you let him up he now knows that he can protest and you will relent and he is dominant to you. Dogs understand this implicitly. He has trained you! To train a dog you must think like one. If your pup protests - tell him he is a bad dog, establish eye contact, and growl at him. Withhold praise until he has submitted to you and you have decided to let him up. Practice the rollover training before meals since hunger gives you added leverage. Do not play games with your pet that involve tests of strength that you might lose. If your pup wins a game of tug-of-war he now thinks he can do this in other areas as well. Mouthing and biting is common puppy play but is not acceptable between dogs and humans. When a pup nips you unless you bite him back he thinks you will not fight back and thus are subordinate to him. Do not tolerate this behavior.
Older dogs who are used to getting their own way may not submit and in fact may bite if they feel challenged. Consider using a muzzle and have knowledgeable help before training sessions with such a dog. At the veterinary office these pets often need sedation or anesthesia for minor procedures that submissive animals willingly tolerate.
Obedience training is a must. Once your pup has finished his puppy shot series ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer. Training to establish dominance and obedience takes hard work but the rewards are well worth it.
Feeding
THE OLD SHOES DIET: 4 pairs old leather workboots + 1 gallon used crankcase oil + 1 pail crushed coal + 8 1/2 gallons water. Blend well.
This recipe has a nutritional analysis similar to premium brand adult dog foods, but the "Old Shoes Diet" will not nourish your dog. Quality ingredients are what make a diet palatable, digestible, and nutritious. Can you be getting premium meat (at $2.50/lb and up) in a pet food, which sells for $0.50/lb.? High quality ingredients are expensive. Good quality diets do not need vitamin or mineral supplements. Your pet should eat well, have a glossy sheen to its hair coat, and excrete a compact stool with minimal odor.
To choose the ideal diet for your pet, consider your pet's species, age, and state of health. Each species has its own dietary requirements. Cats and dogs cannot be fed alike. Carnivorous cats require different nutrients for optimal health compared to omnivorous dogs.
Age is another important consideration. Newborns need colostrum - the antibody rich milk produced by the mother during the first 2-3 days after birth. Newborn animals are normally weaned at 5-7 weeks. If unable to remain with their mother until weaning, then a milk-replacer specific to that species should be fed. Cow's milk is not an acceptable long-term substitute.
Young, pregnant, and lactating animals need increased protein and fat but lower amounts of carbohydrate. Food should be available at all times. Special care is needed in choosing a diet for large breed puppies. If these puppies grow too quickly, skeletal problems such as hip and elbow dysplasia may result. Discuss an appropriate diet with your veterinarian if your young pet is predisposed to these diseases.
Adult animals should be fed a diet that matches their activity level. Feed adult pets 2-3X daily and pick up the food dish when the pet walks away. Leaving food down all day is an invitation to get fat. If your pet is at optimal weight, you should be able to just feel the ribs through the thoracic fat pad. If too fat or too thin then change the amount fed or switch to a diet with a different caloric density.
Geriatric pets need low protein and fat, but higher carbohydrate levels than when middle aged.
Consuming inappropriate items such as stool (copraphagy) or rocks (pica) may indicate a nutritional imbalance. A thorough examination including laboratory work and a stool check may be indicated.
Obesity is as much a problem in animals as people. To lose weight an obese pet needs moderate exercise, fresh water, and high fiber/low calorie foods. Dieting pets should lose no more than 5-10% of their weight per month. Weigh your pet 1-2X a month on an accurate scale to assure this optimal loss rate.
Certain diseases respond well to dietary therapy. Examples of these are anemia, anorexia, colitis, constipation, diabetes, diarrhea, food allergy, heart disease, liver disease, obesity, pancreatic disease, renal disease, post-operative convalescence, urinary tract stones, and vomiting. Special therapeutic diets to aid in treatment of these diseases are only available from your veterinarian. Serious problems can result if fed incorrectly.
Your pet's diet is as important as your own. Good nutrition will optimize your pet's activity and health. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a premium diet for your pet. Try it for a month and see if you notice the difference.
House Training
Puppies and kittens should stay with their mothers until weaned at 5-6 weeks of age. Before taking your new pet home schedule a physical exam with your veterinarian. Vaccines, diet, parasite control, abnormal findings, and behavior hints including house-training are routinely discussed at the first visit.
The house-training philosophy for pups and kittens has similar considerations. No animal wants to eliminate in their "nest" (where they sleep or eat). Any area larger than the "nest" even if it is inside your home is considered outdoors and thus OK to eliminate in.
By using this knowledge puppies can be easily and humanely trained to eliminate outdoors without ever soiling the house. The method is called "crate-training". First you must create a "nest" at home. This will be a shipping crate. It must be large enough to fit the pup when an adult and must be escape proof. It will initially be too big for housetraining. The pup's space in the crate should be only large enough to lie down with food and water bowls. If too much space is available the pup may be tempted to eliminate in a far corner. Place a closed cardboard box at the rear of the kennel to temporarily occupy the excess space.
Puppies eliminate at predictable times: 1) upon awakening from sleep, 2) shortly after eating, and 3) when sniffing or checking out a place to eliminate. You must take your puppy to a designated elimination area every time one of these events occurs.
If you cannot directly observe the pup he should be in the crate. When you are in the house move the crate into the room you are using, especially at night. When the pup cries out, take him outside immediately. You may need to get up several times during the night to take your puppy outside until he is old enough to hold his urine and stool until morning. Whenever he eliminates in the approved area praise him lavishly. Never hit or yell at your pet if they "make a mistake". Pups want to please you and fit into their new pack. This is a very strong motivator. Use praise rather than punishment.
Most kittens need only be shown the litter box and will use it instinctively. Start out by keeping your new kitten in a confined space until he is using a litter box regularly. A bathroom is typically the ideal choice. The litter pan should have low sides so a kitten has ready access. The litter should also be cleaned daily (cats don't like a dirty box.) Gradually allow access to the rest of the house as long as the litter box is being used.
Cat spraying should be differentiated from inappropriate urination. Spraying is done to claim territory and usually vertical surfaces are marked while the cat is standing. On the other hand, urination involves the squatting posture and horizontal surfaces are used. Spraying is not limited to intact toms - even spayed females will spray if stressed. Spaying or neutering before sexual maturity will lessen the urge to spray.
If you have problems with house-training a trip to the veterinarian is recommended. Lab work is often performed to rule out medical causes.
Using these simple techniques puppies and kittens can be house-trained quickly and humanely.